Water in your Basement?

It is important to understand why basement flooding occurs, because there are different solutions available, each effective for a particular scenario. Following, are some of the factors to consider when determining the potential source of basement flooding:

Improper gutter system/downspout extensions too short: The gutters around the house are either backed up (e.g. with leaves), causing ineffective drainage of rainwater, or are draining directly into the soil beside the house. The rainwater is absorbed into the ground and may eventually seep into the basement.

Negative grading: Typically, in newer homes, the ground slopes away from the house, placing the house on top of a very small hill. However, older homes may in fact have a grade sloping toward the house, allowing water to collect as if the home is in a bowl. Unfortunately, this increases the risk for water to accumulate in the basement.

Low-lying area: If your home or neighborhood is located in a low-lying area, flooding may be a common problem. Be sure you have the proper flood insurance.

Heavy precipitation: During heavy rain or snow, the earth around the house is often saturated with moisture, particularly in the spring months as snow begins to melt. This is the time when the basement is most susceptible to flooding.

Improper water management can easily be remedied by cleaning out gutters, extending gutter spouts further away from the house, and placing plastic splash-blocks under the spouts to ensure that runoff water is properly dispersed. Ideally, runoff water should be diverted several feet away from the side of the house.

If your basement is still flooding after properly maintaining your gutters and downspouts, the next step is to inspect for proper installation of the sump pump. This is the pump that prevents groundwater around the house from accumulating to dangerous levels. Most homes built today have sumps pumps. However, many older homes do not.

If you are properly managing the gutters, downspouts, and grading around the home and water continues to get in the basement, you should consider having the sump pump and drain tile system inspected.

If your home is not equipped with a drain tile and sump pump system you may want to consider having these systems installed. This is a costly project and you should exhaust all other possibilities prior to pursuing this option.

Sump pumps are a type of pump installed in the deepest part of the basement, eliminating water build-up in the soil around the foundation. If the soil begins to become damp because of excess water around the foundation, the sump pump will activate and begin pumping the water out of the ground and into a runoff pipe, removing it from the problem area.

A sump pump should have its own dedicated power source and circuit. Because it is always near or in water, a sump pump should have an outlet with a ground fault interrupter.

The PVC piping leading pumped water out of the sump crock should be outfitted with a check valve, which only allows water to flow in one direction. This way, the pumped water will not rush back into the sump crock.

The sump pump should be cleaned 4 times a year. Disconnect the power source. Detach the PVC pipe connectors, and then remove the pump. Sump pumps have screens that block out larger particles from entering the pump mechanism, and these should be cleaned. The insides of PVC pipe connectors should also be cleaned.

When purchasing a sump pump, you should determine whether or not a 1/3 horsepower is sufficient for your needs. You may consider a 1/2 horsepower pump. In most situations, a 1/3 hp pump will work, however, in areas with heavy water build-up, a 1/2 hp pump will pump the water out faster. Sump pumps usually come with charts explaining their pumping rates.

Sump pump piping should not be diverted into sewage systems or septic tanks. These systems are already heavily taxed during heavy rainfall or snowmelt, and pumping more water in would further stress either system. The pumped water should be evacuated at least 20 feet away from the house, preferably down grade and away from the house.

Sump pumps are a vital line of defense against basement flooding, since some basements are often used for storage space, or they can be finished and converted into recreation rooms, home theaters and offices. Like many other areas of the house, basements contain important systems like your heating unit.

Because the basement is below ground, it can be exposed to humidity and flooding, particularly during warmer months. Thousands of dollars worth of damage can easily occur, leaving behind hazardous mildew and moisture.

Some frequently asked questions about sump pumps:

Q. How do you check or test a sump pump?
A. First, make sure the outlet pipe is not frozen shut or plugged and that it directs water away from the house. Next make sure the pump is plugged in. Remove the lid (if the sump has one) and use a flashlight to check if the sump is clean and that the pump inlet is not plugged. Then slowly pour about 5 gallons of water into the sump. Watch the action of the on/off switch and listen to the pump. Make the pump turn on and off at least twice. If something doesn't work right, fix it as soon as possible.

Q. Where should the sump pump drain hose be run?
A. Preferably, sump water should be discharged at least 20 feet away from the house in such a way that it drains away from the house. It should not be directed onto a neighbor's lot, into window wells, or onto a septic system drain field.

Q. Can the average person replace a defective sump pump or does it require specialized tools or the expertise of a plumber?
A. Almost all sump pumps come with a list of required tools and directions for installation. It should not be difficult for the "average" person to replace a sump pump.

Q. How big should the sump hole be? What kind of hole liner should you use? How much gravel do you put under and around it?
A. Sump holes should be about 2 feet in diameter. This allows space for the pump and associated piping and to store water between pumping events (about 15 to 25 gallons). Metal or plastic liners can be used, but plastic is easier to work with. When the sump liner is installed, about 3 to 4 inches of coarse gravel should be placed in the bottom of the hole. The gravel forms a solid base for the pump as well as helping to prevent mud and other debris from clogging the pump.